Over the past year, my eyebrows have brought me unexpected great joy. As the Botox wore off during lockdown, my arches came alive and bounced into the most wonderful shapes; during Zoom, I found that I could mute myself and let my brows do much of the talking - dimpling the inner corners to say "tell me more" or to show my deep concentration or a thoughtful wrinkle.

But once I got outside and put on my mask, whether to run errands or meet friends for a socially distanced park date, the fun was gone. Without adding nuance to the lower half of my face, my eyebrows say all the wrong things. On the mask, the little dimples convey caution, not curiosity. My "I'm concentrating" face looks angry when half hidden. I ask everyone, "Are you okay?

It's not just my imagination: (opens in new tab) According to a recent German study published in Frontiers in Psychology (opens in new tab), masks cover 60 to 70 percent of the parts of our face needed to accurately read our facial expressions. When subjects viewed emotional faces with masks, it was difficult for them to accurately perceive sadness, joy, and anger. The emotion that could be read clearly, masked or not, was fear.

When humans interpret facial expressions, we unconsciously mimic each other: within 400 milliseconds, I frown just a little when I see you frown, and I smile when you smile. These behaviors trigger an emotional feedback loop between the two of us, making sadness greater and joy greater, for example. This response can be manipulated by Botox, for better or worse. Multiple studies have found that the use of neurotoxins to suppress facial muscles is associated with clinically significant reductions in depression. In addition, a study published last June in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (opens in new tab) suggests that the thoughtful use of Botox may minimize mask-induced message disruption and emotional misalignment. In other words, Botox may play an effective role in reducing the "contagious spread of bad moods," as the study puts it. [New York dermatologist Joshua Zeichner (open in new tab) says, "Smiling with your eyes is more important than ever. 'When the lower part of the face is covered, the only thing that can signal a friendly smile is the eyes. By relaxing those muscles, you can eliminate the only visible sign of a friendly expression." To erase wrinkles between the eyebrows or smooth the brows, Botox is a favorite of dermatologists: "Botox is great for transforming the upper half of the face," says a New York dermatologist at Macrene Alexiades (opens in new tab), founder of Macrene Actives (opens in new tab). 'If Botox is used well and correctly, it can quickly erase even the deepest wrinkles.' However, it also means that the proper arch of the eyebrows must be maintained, as they become very prominent."

To complement this new approach to Botox, top-notch physicians are tapping into an endless arsenal of solutions, including lasers, radiofrequency (RF) devices, carefully placed fillers, and even eyelash growth serums such as Latisse (open in new tab), which essentially emotional eyes without reducing movement. I call it the lash index," says New York-based plastic surgeon Lara Devgan (open in new tab) of the attention we've come to pay to the upper half of our faces. Taking a cue from Leonard Lauder's famous theory of the "Lipstick Index" (lipstick sales are booming during times of economic instability), Devgan says. 'The Lash Index is a new metric to follow as a small way to gain beauty, femininity, and confidence during times of instability.' It is a small way to gain beauty, femininity, and confidence in times of instability." "Devgan's blockbuster Platinum Long Lash (opens in new tab), a peptide-based serum formulated to increase the length and density of lashes and brows, has been boosted by impressive before-and-afters on Devgan's social channels and has seen an year, it has seen an astounding 783 percent increase in sales. To lift and open up the upper part of the face and bring out a less stressed, restful look (who wouldn't want that?), Alexiades uses RF devices such as Voluderm, Morpheus 8, and IntraCell, which deliver energy to the dermis through ultra-fine microneedles The targeted area is then tightened at the top of the brow. This treatment is a fraction of the price of a facelift, but if done regularly, it can reduce the need for a facelift, she says. Many patients have also become interested in under-eye fillers because the masks create shadows in poor light and accentuate dark circles. Before filling, however, Alexiades uses the Vbeam laser several times to painlessly remove discoloration, and RF microneedling to tighten the bags. 'If I still need it, I might do a filler,' She says. If you use filler on top of the redness, you end up with an ugly color."

When Paris Fashion Week ends, American editors, buyers, and supermodels rush to CDG airport to attend the last show of the season and board the first plane back home. The in-flight ritual was always the same (and in 2019, Naomi Campbell filmed it for posterity on YouTube (opens in new tab)): disinfect with antibacterial wipes, purify hands with Jao Sanitizer, clean face with Bioderma's Micellar Water (opens in new tab) Then, a luxurious layer of Darphin's Aromatic Purifying Balm (opens in new tab) (beloved for its ability to deeply hydrate without causing breakouts). Finally, some models donned chic black face masks. The theory promoted at the time by HumidiFlyer (opens in new tab), a brand that sells opera singers, K-pop stars, and filtered oxygen masks as personal humidifiers, was that covering your mouth and recycling more of your own breath than inhaling the dry, Sahara-like cabin air This would moisten the vocal cords and nasal passages, make them more resistant to bacteria, and prevent jet lag. (I bought the HumidiFlyer because I heard Campbell was wearing it. It immediately creates steam and a cozy, warm ecosystem around my mouth that feels both uncomfortable and protective at the same time.)

Today, many of us know that warm air filled with volatile compounds from what we eat and drink can cause maskon. Says Zyckner, "Humid environments, stifled breath, and even the occasional sneeze can alter the microbiome of the skin under the mask, likely contributing to skin barrier dysfunction." Alexiades says that changing one's diet to prioritize foods that balance the gut microbiota, such as salmon and yogurt, can help. He also recommends switching to toothpaste that does not contain sodium lauryl sulfate (such as Dr. Bronner's (open in new tab)) and adding oilprings (an alternative health practice that involves gargling with cooking oil) to your routine. Coconut oil leaves behind a film of triglycerides that protects the skin from bad bacteria. Applying a light barrier protection cream before applying a mask can strengthen the skin and prevent rashes and irritation. Says Zyckner, "Anything you can do to strengthen the skin barrier will help protect the skin from the harsh environment under the mask."

As for me, I won't be flying anytime soon (Delta, I miss you), but I now follow a supermodel-like preflight routine before I leave my apartment. And whether it's Zoom or I'm outside wearing a mask, I'm elated and over-exerting my smile lines. [This article appeared in the Spring 2021 issue of Marie Claire.

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