On December 12, Bottega Veneta acknowledged in a press release the long-swirling rumors that Creative Director Mathieu Blasi is stepping down.

On December 12, Bottega Veneta acknowledged in a press release the long-swirling rumor that Creative Director Mathieu Blasi would step down. Within hours, his replacement and new position were announced. Blasi will move from Milan to Paris, where he will serve as “artistic director of fashion activities” for Chanel. Back in Milan, former Carven and Lacoste creative director Louise Trotter will head Bottega. Both designers will assume their new duties in January 2025.

Bottega Veneta CEO Leo Longone welcomed Trotter in a statement Thursday morning, thanking Blazy.

“Her aesthetic seamlessly blends exquisite design with sublime craftsmanship, and her commitment to cultural outreach aligns beautifully with our brand vision,” Rongone said of Trotter. Through her sophisticated lens, Bottega Veneta will continue to honor its heritage while remaining relevant to the modern age.” I am also deeply grateful to Mathieu, who has been a wonderful partner in infusing the Bottega Veneta brand with charm, emotional resonance, and intellectual identity.”

Indeed, Bracy's three years at Bottega Veneta had a huge impact that bodes well for Chanel's cool factor. He has an almost magical ability to distort leather and construct it into unexpected shapes (most famously, the photorealistic “flannel” and “jeans” modeled by Kate Moss). Off the runway, his Andiamo bags and drop earrings have become viral must-haves among celebrities from Kendall Jenner to Hailey Bieber and even Jacob Elordi. Bottega Veneta is currently in Fashion Index Lyst's top 10 hottest brands. There is no doubt that Blazy will bring a fresh (and lucrative) eye to Chanel's house codes of tweed, quilted leather, and double-C logos.

With such an extensive background, Trotter's appointment by Carven to Blazy's previous position is what merits closer examination.

According to the New York Times, in her previous position at Carven, a post she held for nearly two years, Trotter revitalized “an accessible but luxurious luxury brand as a minimalist haven.” And now she must make an even more historic impression on Bottega Veneta, which had not had a woman at the helm until the mid-1990s, since Laura Braggion took over management with her husband, Vittorio Mortedo, in the 1980s. Once she is fully integrated into the team, she will be the only female creative director at Kering's brand. (Other designers owned by the conglomerate include Saint Laurent, Gucci, and McQueen.)

Luxury fashion continues to battle for the creative director chair. Virginie Viard left Chanel earlier this year, and Kaia Gerber's favorite, Céline leader Hedi Slimane, has stepped down, leaving the top position vacant at Fendi. Yesterday, December 11, it was announced that John Galliano was stepping down from his post at Maison Margiela.

While women are top clients at many of these labels, female designers are rarely chosen to lead; according to the 2023 Vogue Business Index, only eight of the 33 top creative directors were women. The lineup of major luxury maisons is mostly skewed toward white males (as is the case in fashion, as well as most other industries). Exceptions include Copenhagen Fashion Week, where 63% of participating brands have female creative directors.

These vacancies and insider deals on the luxury fashion circuit may seem a far cry from the commercial collections that line the boutiques. But as Blazy himself proved with his best-selling collections and celebrity-loved pieces, the right brand, at the right time, and with the right person can powerfully shape a culture's definition of luxury, style, and aspiration.

Design talent is by no means limited to a single gender. But at a time when few women are designing for women in fashion's fastest-growing luxury houses, it is refreshing to see at least one more brand led by someone who truly understands the customer. I for one am looking forward to Louise Trotter's Bottega Veneta, which I think will be a great addition to the brand's lineup.