The Catskill Mountains are perfect for a winter weekend trip - even if you don't ski!
The Catskills, just a few hours from New York City, have long been a favorite place for busy city folk to escape to in search of a winter wonderland. Fall is fantastic for reasons related to the fall foliage, but I myself had never been there in the colder months because I foolishly thought there was nothing to do but ski, ski some more, and then wake up and ski some more. That is an option, no doubt. But for an athletic (read lazy) person like me, a vacation needs things like food, atmosphere, and extreme coziness.
While the powder is fresh (is this something a skier would say?), there is plenty to explore in the Catskills while waiting for spring. Here's what to eat, where to stay, and what to do in Ulster County, home of Woodstock (have you heard of it?).
I'm staying at the Shandaken Inn (opens in new tab). Located under the Catskill Mountains, with Esopus Creek running through the property and a spectacular 360-degree view, the free breakfast is well worth the hotel price. Also, when I arrived, a complimentary sticky date madeleine was on my pillow. Frankly, that was enough for me. That and the fireplace in the room. [Guests could play Scrabble by the fireplace in the cozy living room, the staff learned everyone's name, and it was hard not to smell the aroma of Chef Tim's wonderful cooking at breakfast.
Shandaken has 15 rooms (all named after historic resorts/camps in the area) and dogs are allowed.
BOOK NOW (opens in new tab)
I hoard free breakfast food so I don't have to spend money on lunch I'm the type (classy, I know), but there is so much good food in the area that it's worth spending a little extra.
A spot that is 100 percent not to be missed. This vintage diner is basically Instagram fodder meets delicious noms, and I had the best burger of my life. 10 AM. Normal.
I'm only here for the weekend and I don't want to give them a bad meal. This chill spot, just down the street from the Shandaken Inn, will give you the best of both worlds. The beer menu is extensive, the quesadillas are delicious, and there are board games to play while you eat. What more could you want? Oh, and they have $3 drafts, too.
Look out for this weekend's best meal, because the food at Peekamoose is better than any night in New York City. The homemade gnocchi is a collection of edible pillows, and I highly recommend the short ribs afterwards. The sauce is made over a three-day period.
I have already mentioned that this trip is not about skiing. However, that does not mean that you cannot enjoy the great outdoors. Climb Overlook Mountain, see the façade of the once glorious Overlook Mountain House, and then treat yourself to a stroll through the town of Woodstock.
Places to visit Bread Alone bakery (three words: chocolate pound cake), Tinker Toys (you might think it's for kids, but then why did I buy so many things for my apartment? You might not recognize it from the name, but this is a candle store and it smells like heaven. Then there is also Shindig for those who, like me, need a second lunch.
But Woodstock is not the only place worth exploring. The small town of Shandaken has Blue Barn Antiques (opens in new tab), where you can spend an hour or more wandering from corner to corner and, if you have a spare car, leave with a one-of-a-kind vintage frock or casual dresser. About 30 minutes from Shandaken is the highest waterfall in the region, Kaaterskill Falls. It's a slippery climb, but if I could do it, you can too.
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