Gel manicures are the source of many beauty urban legends. Some say gel manicures have led to peeling nail beds, weak nails, irritation, and recent breakups. Others rave about their gel manicure experience, including the dreamy shine that lasts for weeks and the lack of chipping (opens in new tab). It's time to ask the question: in other words, does a gel manicure really "ruin" your nails, or is it just user error?

To clarify, we spoke with New York dermatologist and nail expert Dana Stern, M.D. (opens in new tab). Are gel nails really worse than regular nail polish? Here is what Stern had to say.

Well, at least it doesn't seem to be completely off the mark. Says Dr. Stern, "What makes gel technology unique is that even though you can apply it like a traditional nail lacquer, you don't have to sit and wait for it to dry because the gel has a chemical composition that allows it to cure with a UV light and produce a glossy finish."

Gel manicures require exposure to UV light (whether UVA or LED lamps), which can contribute to skin damage, but don't worry. Says Dr. Stern, "One study quantified the skin cancer risk from these devices and determined that having a gel manicure every week did not increase your chances of developing skin cancer." Still, more research is needed, she adds.

"We dermatologists tend to be cautiously optimistic," she says, "but to protect the skin on your hands and feet from UV-induced aging, we recommend applying broad-spectrum sunscreen 15 minutes before UV exposure or using fingertipless gloves or pedicure socks.

It's a surprise. There are two types of gel you can get at the salon: soft gel and hard gel. Hard gels are the traditional gels of the 1980s, which do not penetrate acetone and require filing. Soft gels, on the other hand, are newer "soak-off" gels that can be removed without aggressive scraping," says Dr. Stern.

Naturally, hard gels are more damaging than soft gels, but even soak-off gels are likely to cause some problems when soaked in acetone for 10 minutes (or longer).

Yes, sorry, it's true. It's not good for your nails. A study at Miami Medical University demonstrated that gel manicures, using ultrasound, thin nails."

"Another cause could be if the gel is removed incorrectly," she says. If you've ever rubbed off regular polish with acetone, you know that it dries after a few minutes. 'It is my personal opinion, and what I have observed in practice, that most of the damage is due to the removal process,' she says. Especially if the manufacturer's instructions are not followed or if two different brands are mixed together."

I'm not saying you have to stop using gel for life, but if you are concerned about damage to your nails, there are a few things you can do to lessen its impact. Before getting a manicure, "ask how the gel will be removed, and make sure you don't use a file, sander, or other tool to vigorously scrape off the gel. Gel polish should come off easily when dipped in acetone, but these methods can cause significant, sometimes irreversible damage to the nails and cuticles."

And, she adds, you need to be your own advocate in the salon. "If it's not easy, something is wrong." "We need to speak up."

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