I first tried shochu a few years ago at Takahachi (opens in new tab), a Korean barbecue spot in New York City. My table was still being set up, so my date and I were greeted with a strange glass of peach as soon as we entered the restaurant. Taking a sip, it tasted like a sublimated Capri Sun. Juicy, fruity, delightfully sweet, and not as boozy and pungent as I had expected. It was juicy, fruity, delightfully sweet, and not as boozy as I had expected. I ordered several cups throughout the meal, but I don't remember the dessert. Finish.

Flash forward to a more formal dinner on a press trip to Seoul, South Korea, in 2018. My fellow editors and I had just sat down for bibimbap. Then our host pulled out a bottle of murky clear liquid and poured us a shot. It's soju," she chided, and I froze. I froze and imagined myself fading into the darkness, just as I had the last time I had indulged in this drink. But we cheered and threw back our glasses. Floral and dry, it tastes like booze in the best sense of the word. Transcendent. I sipped it for the rest of the meal, appreciating its complexity. On the way out, I boosted the leftover (and paid for) bottle.

Like many Americans, I wasn't sure what to expect from soju, a Korean distilled spirit that has been enjoyed for centuries.

"It was first distilled in Korea in the 1300s," says Victoria James, beverage director at Cote (open in new tab), a Korean steakhouse in New York City. Historians believe that the Mongols brought Persian arak distilling techniques to Korea." The word soju means "burnt liquor" and refers to the process of distilling alcohol at high temperatures." The flavor is mild and is typically distilled from rice. James warns, however, not to buy from low-quality producers of "green bottles" that cheat the production process with chemicals. It is stronger than beer or wine, but less alcoholic than most vodkas. Flavors vary and are not all traditional, but historically, natural flavors such as plum were often added to temper the taste of alcohol.

James points out that soju is for nights of "karaoke and dancing," suggesting the impact of alcohol on the palate, but soju lovers at Pocha32 (open in new tab), a late-night Koreatown eatery that serves fun, fruity-flavored soju with a bellyful of and paired with a hearty meal.

"Shochu goes especially well with barbecue, straws, and spicy dishes. Think of typical Korean dishes like fried chicken, tteokbokki, or rice cakes with gochujang sauce," says Jay, one of Pocha32's team members. The restaurant combines honey, sprite, and fresh fruit for a more whimsical presentation and taste. Typically, we use equal parts fresh watermelon juice and shochu." Sometimes topped with lemon-lime soda, it is often served inside a hollow seedless watermelon," says Jay.

First-time soju drinkers can stick to another traditional Korean bar drink: soomek, or mekju in Korean, is a two-ingredient cocktail combining soju and beer. The preferred ratio in Korean bars is 3 soju to 7 lager, sometimes served in special glasses that indicate a precise pour. The bottom of the glass is tapped with a spoon to generate the carbonation of the beer and mix the drinks. But whether mixing shochu or drinking it straight, it is essential to find a high-quality bottle.

"The best bottlings on the American market right now are Yobo (open in new tab), Tokki (open in new tab), and Hwayo (open in new tab), so stick with them," James suggests. If you're short on neutral spirits like vodka, you're in luck with these bottles. I plan to make a shochu Collins in the near future. We'll try not to forget dessert this time.

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