Most of us assume that washing our face (open in new tab) is a very basic task that can be accomplished even if we are completely exhausted or tipsy. (If you've successfully cleansed (open in new tab) before bed to avoid the horror of waking up with last night's mascara on, all snaps are for you.) Says Dr. Doris Day, a New York dermatologist and author of "Forget the Face Lift." There are many sophisticated, gentle cleansers available that won't strip the skin, so using the right one will help it absorb moisturizing and anti-aging products more effectively"

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Obviously, a good old-fashioned splash and scrub won't do. For a cleanser to truly do its job, there are some guidelines that cannot be compromised... Additionally, there are myths circulating that need to be addressed.

Especially with the innovation of cleansers and the growing popularity of 15-step skin care routines, misinformation can spread rapidly. We spoke with some of the top dermatologists to sort through all the facts about cleansing and share how to perform this very important step in your routine the right way. Read on for the new rules for getting your freshest face.

Cleansing is a two-step process. 'Remove makeup before you wash your face,' says Dr. Jeanine Downey, a dermatologist in Montclair, NJ. 'Many cleansers fail to completely remove concealer and foundation, especially around the eyes and nose.' To dissolve stubborn sunscreen and makeup, use an oil-based cream, emollient wipes, or cleansing oil. Then, use warm water and a cleanser the size of a dime (look for sulfate-free surfactant ingredients such as cocamidopropyl betaine or caprylic triglyceride) on your fingers or a clean, damp washcloth.

The jury is still out on the frequency of cleansing (once in the morning and once in the afternoon or just once at night), but all physicians agree that over-washing leads to irritation and lack of moisture. 'The reality is that most of us apply some sort of night cream or serum. In the morning, use a gentle cleanser like Cetaphil (open in new tab), and at night, double cleanse with an oil-based cleanser and then follow up with a more active exfoliating wash," New York City dermatologist Dendi Engelman says.

The rule is to use common sense: Always wash your face after exercise to prevent breakouts, and wash excessively oily skin morning and night. Dry or sensitive skin should be washed once a day, at night. Be careful not to "over-wash, as this can strip your face of its natural oils and natural lipids, leading to irritation," says Dr. Tiffany Libby, assistant professor of dermatology at Brown University.

Sorry folks, but you can skip rituals like massaging your face to improve circulation or dousing your face with cold water to "close" your pores. Says Downey, "Pores don't open and close." In fact, extreme heat or cold can exacerbate problems such as rosacea and redness. Nevertheless, it is never a bad idea to cleanse in the shower, as mild steam can soften hardened sebum in the pores. Also, "Massage feels good but doesn't do much," Downey adds. Exercise is what stimulates circulation."

Whatever your skin, make sure the ingredients list is free of irritating fragrances, parabens (toxic preservatives), and harsh soaps (drying). Says New York dermatologist Dr. Brad Katchen, "As long as the cleanser meets those criteria, the formula itself (cream, lotion, foam, etc.) is a matter of personal preference." Of course, someone with dry skin might prefer a formula with added moisturizers such as glycerin or shea butter. And "those with oily skin may prefer a cleanser that lathers well and cleanses the skin very well," says Dr. Day. The American Academy of Dermatology (open in new tab) also recommends avoiding alcohol in cleansers, which can be abrasive to the skin.

Salicylic acid and glycolic acid cleansers are gentler and more effective than granular scrubs, and both have anti-aging properties that can help prevent breakouts. Alternate use with your regular cleanser (start with three times a week) and adjust according to your skin condition and mood. Using acids on the skin can unclog pores and make them less noticeable. 'Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) gently exfoliate and improve the skin's texture. These gentle exfoliating acids help remove debris and further minimize the appearance of pores," Libby adds.

"Alcohol-based lotions strip away natural oils," Day explains. Not good. A gentle toner will soothe the skin and balance pH levels, but with the right cleanser, this step really isn't necessary." I like the feel of lotion anyway. "Other dermatologists would agree that the toning step should not be skipped. Instead, choose a gentle, alcohol-free lotion.

"A brush removes more oil, dirt, and dead skin cells than your hands and is less aggressive than most exfoliating cleansers and scrubs," Day says. But it's not something you have to use every night, especially if you're also applying ingredients like retinoids or acids." Exfoliating too much can cause irritation." Basically: but sparingly. (Right now, we're obsessed with Clarisonic's new acne-cleansing brush head.) To keep your brush bacteria-free, rinse it after use and let it dry naturally. As with Brita, brush heads should be replaced every three months. When using a facial brush, be careful not to press too hard on the skin. Engelman adds, "If the brush is too strong, it can cause microscopic scars and acne from over-manipulation of the skin."

Save expensive ingredients like retinol and antioxidants for leave-on products instead of cleansers. Says Katchen, "These ingredients are] most effective when they are concentrated on the skin."

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