In the "Penguin" Sofia Falcone does ugly things in a beautiful costume

In the "Penguin" Sofia Falcone does ugly things in a beautiful costume

feisty a new bomb has entered the extended universe of Batman, and her name is Sofia Falcone: The story of Sofia, skillfully played by breakout star Christine Milioti, who becomes the unlikely hero among hbo's Penguins, has been torn from the headlines that good girls have gone bad. The story: Born into a wealthy but deeply troubled family as the daughter of Carmine Falcone, the city's dominant crime boss, Sofia spends her life chasing the passive feminine ideals her father wants.

But when Sofia finds herself for strangling some women, all that do-gooding ends up in vain. By the way, the killing was actually committed by her father. And when Sofia becomes wise to the truth, Carmine decides to make her his Patsy instead of his heir. After 10 years of trauma at the Arkham Psychiatric hospital, Sophia (literally) left scars and was thirsty for revenge.

Costume designer Helen Huang would have been easy to rely on the aesthetic tropes of all the mob wives that came to be expected from standard works such as Scarface, pulp fiction, the Godfather, Casino, Goodfellows, American Hustle and the Sopranos. However, Huang says that she wanted Sofia's styling to "feel more fashion and curation than that."Instead, she sought inspiration from 1960s society photos and Truman Capote's white ball photos.

"I didn't really want her to look like a traditional mob princess," Huang says. "In falconry, we thought of them as a kind of old European institutionalized money. So we looked at Edie Sedgwick, obviously she had gorgeous clothes so I thought it was a good reference, but the rebellious style

Another important reference was the edited shot of Peter Lindbergh in 1994/9 Harper's Bazaar It was from the '60s. Reinterpreted the clothes of the 90s modern It gar

"It was a very kind of proper and elegant outfit, but with young women, it has a completely different feel," she adds.

Sofia's style takes an iconic turn when she accepts her psycho-killer reputation and decides to overthrow her father's regime and revive herself as the city's scoundrel boss. Her color palette expands. The shape becomes larger. The texture will be more wild. And the heel will be much higher. In other words, she begins to occupy visual space. Men call her crazy, and perhaps they are right. But you will have to be nuts so that you do not agree that Sofia Falcone looks phenomenal.

Like a wolf dressed in sheep's clothing, Sofia makes a quiet and powerful entrance to the series, with Toteme's slingback kitten heels, sheer dotted tights and neck It's a nervously docile look that instantly subverts our expectations about how a fresh rumored serial killer in a mental hospital will dress. The best accessory of Sofia, however, should be her cold and unflinching gaze.

"I think it's very hard to scare people who wear kitten heels," Huang says. "Christine really embodied the clothes and turned them into something more creepy.

Episode Two sees Sofia in another custom suit and this time wears a zebra print vintage Celine coat sourced from there This red Prada-inspired coat felt like an heirloom that Sofia inherited from her late mother, Huang explains. The strategic pop of color and print also used Sofia to stand out from the gloom of her family home, and the darkly dressed men that surround her there.

"We tried to make her femininity be the one of her disarming, as opposed to men," Huang says. "It makes her a threat by just being around.

Then, for a secret drug business meeting in a nightclub, Sofia pours herself into a sultry Dion Lee black lace contoured corset dress with an 80s feel paired perfectly with her disheveled shag haircut.

Dressed in a gas mask and morbidly beautiful Christopher John Rogers Chartreuse dress, Episode Four ends with the Ghost Sofia Ghost through Falcone's mansion, which was orchestrated to wipe out her whole blood with a gas leak.

"We tried a lot of Rodarte, but the writer thought, "No, no, no, this is not right,"" Huang recalls. "It needs to feel like a party coming out. She needs to feel like she's walking on the carpet.

The knockout dress indicates that Sofia was the first to wear something low-cut in the series.

"All along until Episode 4, she was pretty covered up," Huang continues. "The neckline was high because there's this uncertainty and anxiety about the scars she got at Arkham. But after a citrine dress, she shows a lot of herself. It's a very subtle shift, but it really shows much more confidence on her side.

A long Georgette train in a gown also gave the camera something to follow.

"It's really special in a way because it's not really practical," Huang says. That's how she's doing all these really awful things in a really, really beautiful gown and that juxtaposition creates this tension. What an entrance, how beautiful it looks swept to the floor over all the corpses in a gas mask. It's tense, but also interesting in a way. It's like a wink to an audience who says, "Here we are."

The morning after slaughtering her family, Sofia greets the police in leather sandro pants and a pair of pointy acne studio ankle boots.

Having annihilated the falcon, Sofia decides to co-choose what remains of her father's flunkies and start a new crime family under her mother's maiden name. She announces the news in a Fleur du Mar black lace slip dress topped with 1 of her mother's vintage fur coat. Huang commissioned a custom faux fur piece based on a reference photo of a coat mixed into a piece of several types, tones, and animal fur patterns.

"We chose it because of the different types of long-haired fur, so it doesn't feel flat," Huang says. "It has this huge structure and reflects her kind of inner confusion in that it's not just a cohesive mink or a vintage mink. It looks like a kind of wild and is no less modest than a vintage fur with short hair."

Huang always knew that he wanted to pair a coat with a slip that would harmonize with Sofia's quiet elegance, even if the fur felt like a tailoring departure.

"I always want women to feel that they know who they are, and when they experience emotional change, they only have access to different parts of their closet to become who they need to be at the moment," she elaborates. "But it's not that we're sad, so we go outside and buy another wardrobe.

Leopard print is used sparingly in Sofia's outfits to avoid obvious mob wife-style platitudes. But one of the places it pops up is the seductive Rodarte lace and leopard slip she wears after becoming the boss of the newly formed Gigante crime family, highlighting her transformation from prey to predator.1

One of Huang's proudest moments in the series was to put together a vintage Marnicoat and a 1960s lame dress with a sky-high pair of Christian louboutin Mary Jane, which Sofia wears, while Sofia hunts down her enemies.1

"They're really, really high," Huang says of the heels. "They are like 5 inches. It is girly shoes, but the height gives it its feminine power. I think where the idea of this outfit came from. It is both girly and intimidating and sexy at the same time.

The vintage dress was sourced from soon to finish. The jacket, like most vintage coats that make up the wardrobe of Sofia, came from there real thing.

"I can't really see her buying from the store," Huang says. "I didn't want the Dc characters to feel like they could shop at Bloomingdale, Neiman Marcus, etc., so after trying the life of a rival gang that made her feel very timeless

, Sophia was forced to wear a black David Coma minidress with a long red sash that looked like a trail of blood. This is the first time I've ever seen a woman in my life. She accessorised with the same pair of sheath dresses as the Christian Louboutin platform Mary Jane she wears in the previous episode and sheer black tights with decorative seams running midline.

As Sofia's arc action ramps up, so does her wardrobe palette. Vivienne Westwood blue tartan corset and miniskirt is a pair of thin cobalt blue Walford x Muggler tights she wears to talk business with mafia subordinates.

When Sofia's story line reached a dangerous conclusion, she was almost shot to death. Instead, she is spared, but soon taken into police custody: a fate almost worse than death for her. Huang wanted to create a textured look, but for Milioti it was important to create a new custom garment with cruel materials. Instead of fur, Huang had voluminous clothing built using feathers instead.

"It got together really, really quickly," Huang says. "And if there is 1 stab wound to something, I'm not sure if it will work. But when she put it on, I said, "You look great. It looks like you're really being snatched up for what you're doing.'"

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