Madonna and lots of drama: Lure's Spring 2025 runway was a study in showmanship

Madonna and lots of drama: Lure's Spring 2025 runway was a study in showmanship

“OH MY GOD.” Beyonce came to the Lure show.

Beyonce's appearance at the brand's Fall 2024 show was the first time in nine years for Fashion Week. Unsurprisingly, it caused a great deal of consternation. The only level of havoc I have witnessed once before was when I was Black Friday shopping at my local Best Buy. To get a better look at Bey, who was dressed in a silver sequined blazer and Stetson cowboy hat, the crowd got out of their seats while the models were still walking down the runway. One guest behind me turned his back completely on the clothes coming out and instead preferred to take clear shots of the 32-time Grammy winner for Instagram Live.

In the car back to Manhattan that night, scrolling through blurry photos of Lure's super-shouldered leather jacket, I remember listening to the newly released “Texas Hold 'Em” and texting a friend, “Breathing the same air as Beyoncé has made me a different person.” I am a different person.

Dominican-American designer Raul Lopez was faced with a tall task before Lure's Spring 2025 show at NYFW on September 10 at 30 Rockefeller Center. How to follow up on the mountain-moving act of bringing Beyoncé to deep Bushwick, where the show had previously taken place, and breaking off her decade-long sabbatical from the fashion circus?

The answer became clear as soon as Model of the Year nominee Alex Consani, dressed in a black bustier and sheer tights, burst through the 30-lock revolving door to open the show. spring 2025, Lopez makes serious, sexy clothes, and she does it with a sartorial flair, sculpted silhouettes and reminded the audience of his skill at exaggerating and exalting the physical body. His skill alone is enough drama to make Lure's show one to remember for a lifetime.

Of course, it helped that Madonna was there. Seated in the front row next to rapper Ice Spice, the Queen of Pop arrived fashionably late, wearing big bug glasses and a Lure camel coat dress with shoulder pads that would have made a linebacker look good.

Lure's Spring 2025 collection was titled “En Boca Quedó,” which translates directly to “I am in your mouth,” or as the brand elaborated in the show notes, “Know that even after you walk away, people will keep talking about you - for good or Whether it's good or bad.” Lopez knows that this is a show that people will talk about.

The 53-look collection included everything from commercial pieces like the cult-favorite round-handled Anna bag to the huge shoulders found throughout the outerwear, like the black trench worn by rapper Offset when he made a surprise cameo appearance and walked the runway. Several of Lure's signatures were included, from the avant-garde, like the silhouette.

Lopez also found novel ways to subvert his merely ridiculous proportions, notably with a distorted trench coat that seemed to float a few inches in the air with its back boning, and a sand-colored knit dress that would look right at home in Zendaya's “Dune”: the Zendaya Dune: Part 2” sand knit dress that wouldn't look out of place on a press tour.

Punk rock was a core influence in the Lure collection, traces of which could be seen in coats with removable zipper panels, extremely constricting leather jackets, and shorts with diagonal slits. Also, crash cars converted into speakers and subwoofers were placed along the sides of the runway, blasting music so loud that one could feel the bass pounding in their bones. [What could be more punk than disrupting an average Tuesday night in New York City by putting on a mass show that tourists eating water dogs and shopping at F.A.O. Schwartz could enjoy for free?

And Lopez's mission to get people talking proved to be an instant success: as I hailed a cab on Fifth Avenue, I overheard a teenager telling a friend, “That was insane.”

As I drove home, rewatching over and over the video of the show's finale and the five-second clip that captured Madonna's exit from “30 Rock,” I couldn't help but agree with the young fashion fan. Lure's Spring 2025 show was memorable.

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