There wasn't exactly a shortage of designers bringing square-toe black kitten heels to the world in 2019. But according to the requests that flooded luxury sourcer and trend expert Gab Waller's inbox, only Swedish brand Toteme was making these heels that year.

Customers couldn't stop asking for Toteme heels, and eventually also for a collarless wool coat with a matching scarf attached and a slouchy leather clutch bag with a T-shaped lock. They were as popular as Chanel, Prada, and Saint Laurent. As Waller bought totems for her clients, she herself became fascinated with them. Elegant, sophisticated, refined,” she says. Clean-cut pants, nice unmarked leather bags, endless variations of beige sweaters. Everything looks great, but there's still a sense that it could be worn in real life, and I'm not exaggerating when I say that Toteme's cut-out ribbed knit top is one of the top 10 most worn out pieces in my wardrobe.”

Waller is just one of the women in the know who have taken Toteme clothing and accessories from a mere scandi-chic label, often seen among the invited guests at Copenhagen Fashion Week, to an international powerhouse. In the decade since co-founders and actual partners Erin Kling and Karl Lindeman launched the brand, it has expanded into high-end retailers like SSENSE and Net-a-Porter, opened four stores in the US, had several products go viral on TikTok (and Toteme's products have been featured in the closets of the eternal it-girls Haley Bieber, Laura Harrier, and Sofia Richie Grainge; Toteme's products have also been featured on insider publications like Laura Reilly's Magasin and Jessica Graves' The Love When TikTokers showcase the outfits of “hot girls,” Toteme is a regular feature.

According to the New York Times, Toteme's luxurious sweaters and no-frills pants generated $150 million in revenue last year. Thanks to its momentum, Toteme was named to the New York Fashion Week calendar for spring 2025, hosting a runway on the roof of a skyscraper.

Toteme's attire for the Spring 2025 runway stuck to the beat its growing fan base knew. A white three-quarter sleeve top and black culotte pants. Clingy knit dresses and collarless satin or leather coats. A little splash of butter yellow and the same understated silhouette. From the outside looking in, one might wonder why fashion editors would post a drooling face emoji on this beige turtleneck instead of the turtleneck presented by another Swedish brand, COS, the day before.

It starts with perspective; Toteme was founded by a former influencer who, like the equally modest Anine Bing, is well versed in aesthetics. Erin Kling got her start as a fashion blogger and early adopter of Instagram. Her understanding of what can pop up online is evident in her mastery of making clothes that are essentially practical while leveling up from the standard “basics.” Admit it: a puffy cape coat with a removable matching scarf and kitten heels sharp enough to sting is very photogenic.

The brand was shy about giving me an interview before the show. Toteme's perspective on minimalism, which takes basic T-shirts and pants up a few notches, caught the eye of Brigitte Chartrand, SSENSE's vice president of womenswear buying and everything-else. 'We began carrying Toteme in the spring of 2016, a time when we were revamping our womenswear strategy and further articulating the merchandising perspective we are known for today,' she told me. As part of that, we decided to focus on interesting brands that combine a minimalist approach to the wardrobe with an interesting design aesthetic that is uniquely Toteme.”

Toteme clothes are not cheap. Most items start at three figures, and the most socially-inspired coats and bags can reach $1,230. Still, they are not as unaffordable as French luxury houses, and their designs can survive more than a few trend cycles. Says Waller, “I'm all about cost per wear and buying items that can be rotated.” Toteme's designs are just that--they are designed with the absolute confidence that if you buy a Toteme item, you will be able to wear it in a variety of ways for years to come.” For example, her favorite black shirt can be worn with jeans or layered under a blazer.

Toteme clothing is not only growing through boutiques and retail stores. The resale market is also thriving, which is often a sign of a surge in popularity. According to Rachel Glicksberg, Fashion & New Initiatives Lead at The RealReal, Toteme's supply on the site is up 55% year over year, and overall demand for the label is up 66% over the same period.

The same T-lock bags demanded by Waller's customers are also among The RealReal's top used sellers. Demand for bags from all labels has increased 851 percent in the past year, and what sets Toteme bags apart, Glicksberg says, is their logo-free, neutral design (previously called quiet luxury). She says, “Fashion insiders can spot this style like a hawk, but it's that discreet style that makes it a true classic.” [There are variations in leather, satin, suede, and crochet, with detachable wristlet straps. Shoes, meanwhile, are peep-toe leather mules and crossover-strap slides; they're inherently wearable with just a little sparkle, like the kitten heels introduced in 2019. Even at its most understated, the entire look could be copied and pasted straight into Haley Bieber's Sushi Park wardrobe. By the time they hit stores next May, Waller's inbox is sure to be flooded with requests again.