When Mary Janes began trending on the Chanel and Prada runways, every shoe had a distinct "back to school" vibe. With their dark leathers and sturdy buckles, they were classified as "fall" shoes that were quickly replaced by mesh flats or sandals as soon as the temperature began to rise.

I still see buckled leather mary janes in street styles with little white ankle socks and preppy, Tortured Poets-esque skirts. But as the shoe trend continues longer, it begins to evolve. This spring, the mary jane is rising in popularity and taking on a more whimsical look. Instead of a collegiate look, these lightweight, colorful slippers look like something an American Girl doll would wear.

The shoes I am interpreting as "doll shoes" are Venetian flats to be exact. Traditionally, the uppers of this style are made of velvet, canvas, or brocade, and the soles are repurposed bicycle tires. It combines the comfort and free-spiritedness of a vacation espadrille with the sophistication of a typical Mary Jane.

Minimalist versions are also available in linen and black, but the most exciting pairs are jewel-toned or floral, with contrasting stitching. These are not the Mary Janes you wear when studying for exams in Oxford's staid library or dressing up as characters from Secret History. They are for skipping down the sidewalk on sunny afternoons with a basket bag slung over one shoulder and wearing a sunny outfit from the Doen.

The brands behind this look are not all new: Vibi Venezia, Capulette, and Stevi Stefan make each pair by hand in Italy, and have done so for decades. We are just now catching up with their fascination.

Hilary Kerr, founder of Who What Wear, raved about a pair of green Capulette's in her newsletter Hi Everyone, and Katie Holmes is wearing a pair of blueberry Vibi Venezia's in a row this spring. I myself have been wearing them in the mornings since I bought a pair of moss green shoes (unless the color doesn't work with my outfit, in which case I change clothes and keep wearing them).

U.S. designers have also discovered the style's easygoing yet playful appeal. On Thursday, New York Fashion Week darling Markarian unveiled a limited-edition capsule with Vibi Venezia. The Upper East Side showroom of cool-girl label Attersee is selling a pair in collaboration with Drogheria Crivellini, also made in Italy.

The more studly Mary Janes will always be available if you want them (I'm definitely hanging on to my old shoes). But the colors and patterns look like spring shoes. These shoes make us all Alice in Wonderland.