The upheaval of 2020 is not yet etched in history, but it is already written all over our faces in the form of breakouts, wrinkles, and dryness. New York dermatologist Denise Gross (open in new tab) says that while it's not news that stress shows up on our skin, our new anxious routines are exacerbating this problem.

When we encounter a stressor, our bodies trigger a fight-or-flight response. 'It's a fight-or-flight response,' says Francisco Tausk, a psychodermatologist and professor of dermatology, allergy, immunology, and rheumatology at the University of Rochester. 'Blood pressure rises, the heart begins to pound, and the brain must be clear to escape. Our bodies prioritize the organs needed for their appointments, but the skin is not one of them, so what keeps the skin in tip-top shape is essentially suspended. At the same time, a cascade of hormones is unleashed, causing confusion of complexion.

This system makes sense evolutionarily. However, today's fight against stress is a marathon, not a short-distance run. The "fight-or-flight response takes only seconds or minutes. When it doesn't go off, all sorts of problems arise," explains Amy Wexler, a New York dermatologist and psychiatrist (opens in new tab). Here, experts explain what's causing the condition you may be experiencing and recommend new advances in how to cope.

Of all the skin problems caused by stress, Wexler has recently received the most complaints about acne. Stress brings about the perfect storm of increased inflammation and sebum production necessary to create acne. Says Gross, "It changes the chemistry of sebum so that the pores become more clogged."

The mere presence of acne can be a vicious cycle, says Wexler, because of the mental toll it takes (studies have linked it to an increased risk of depression).

But even when acne clears up, it is not necessarily a problem at all. As New York dermatologist Rosemary Ingleton notes (opens in new tab), "breakouts often leave hyperpigmentation, especially in skin of color."

Your first instinct may be to soak your skin with typical acne medications, but wait a minute. Your skin is sensitive in times of stress, so swap the dry benzoyl peroxide remedy for a milder salicylic acid-backed one; this is key to preventing discoloration. 'Anything that tingles is the same as inflammation,' Ingleton says. 'As that inflammation subsides, there is a greater likelihood that the darkening will remain.'

If that happens, opt for a gentle brightener that won't further stoke the flames of inflammation, like the fruit acids and niacinamide in Ingleton's Rose MD Complex Brightening Booster (open in new tab). Unlike pigmentation treatments with photopigmentation agents like hydroquinone, the milder ingredients "shed dark spots over time, as opposed to bleaching the skin, which can make it too light," Ingleton explains. Whatever you do, don't stop moisturizing: If you dry out the skin, the organ will only overcompensate by increasing sebum production. Simply look for a non-comedogenic formula; Loum Stay Balance Primer Moisturizer (open in new tab) is infused with salicylic acid, anti-inflammatory wild indigo and microalgae, and broad-spectrum CBD, which studies have shown also inhibits excessive sebum secretion.

As peace of mind is lost, so is skin hydration. Stress inhibits the natural production of skin moisturizers like hyaluronic acid. A second reason skin looks and feels dry: Inflammatory norepinephrine and cytokines disrupt the skin's barrier function, causing dryness, irritation, and inflammation, says Tausk. Wexler notes, "Many people can tolerate many products without stress." "Stress can cause an itchy rash. "

SOLUTION: To get barrier function

back to peak, Wexler says, ditch everything that causes irritation and dryness, including lotions and exfoliators. Then switch to a fragrance-free, hypoallergenic skincare lineup and replenish with plenty of moisturizers. Chanel's Solution 10 (open in new tab) is a moisturizer Wexler developed to address sensitive skin, often caused by stress, with glycerin to boost hydration, shea butter for restorative properties, and a unique Silver Needle Tree Extract is included in the formula.

I feel like I've aged 10 years in the past year. According to Gross, thanks to the loss of circulation in the skin as a result of the fight-or-flight response, which sends blood to vital organs, we lose our once youthful glow when we suffer from stress. The tension that invades the neck and jaw extends to the face in the form of (presumably) lines and wrinkles.

But the hormone cortisol can do the most damage here. Says Tausk, "Cortisol causes collagen breakdown, skin thinning, and delayed wound healing." Studies have also shown that stress interferes with DNA repair and leads to shortening of telomeres (protective membranes at the ends of chromosomes that shrink with age).

Such damage, which occurs from within the skin, makes the skin more susceptible to damage from the outside. As the body's production of free radicals increases rapidly, says Gross, the natural supply of antioxidants decreases. As a result, skin becomes more vulnerable to external stresses such as UV radiation.

The solution: boost your defenses

First, (finally) the good news: "Short-term stress-induced aging should reverse itself within six months," says Wexler. In other words, the wrinkles between your eyebrows will soften. We would prefer to deal with more long-term aging.

Again, your skin is on the sensitive side, so this is not the time to try aggressive active ingredients like retinol. Instead, prioritize neutralizing free radicals and protecting with antioxidant-rich formulas, Wechsler suggests. Gross developed Stress Rescue Super Serum (opens in new tab) after seeing how stress was robbing patients of a happy, healthy complexion. In addition to microencapsulated antioxidant superfoods (goji berries, cacao, and shiso sprouts), it blends anti-inflammatory adaptogens and barrier-restoring niacinamide for all-around effectiveness.

Of course, none of this will help if the underlying problem, the actual stress, is not addressed. 'I encourage everyone to take some time for themselves every day. Do whatever gives you peace and calm," Ingleton says. As it happens, taking care of your skin itself may do the trick. Wexler advises, "Just washing your face can help you regain a sense of control."

This article appears in the Fall 2020 issue of Marie Claire.

Click here to subscribe (opens in new tab)