How Ashley James spends a day at the museum

How Ashley James spends a day at the museum

In the new series "MC Muse," experienced women from around the world share their styles, ambitions, and the items they most want to buy right now.

Ashley James studied English Literature at Columbia University, where she earned her M.A. and Ph.D. in English Literature with a focus on African American Studies and Gender Sexuality and a career as an English professor. That all changed in 2014 when he was given the rare opportunity to co-curate "Odd Volumes: Book Art" at the Yale University Art Gallery on the campus of Yale University, where James was earning his Ph. Her MoMA assignment was a retrospective of the American artist and philosopher Adrian Piper. The rest is history," she says. After the fellowship, James was hired as assistant curator at the Brooklyn Museum, and last November she shattered the glass ceiling of the prestigious New York museum when she was hired as the first full-time black female curator of the Guggenheim's contemporary art collection.

James co-curated one of the largest projects to date, the 25th annual Hugo Boss Prize exhibition (open in new tab), which honors influential contemporary artists regardless of age, gender, nationality, or medium. Over the past year, she has worked with six finalists and is now in the final stages of the competition. She is working with award-winning photographer Deanna Lawson to curate the award's spring 2021 exhibition.

As the museum's first black female curator, James' broader efforts are aimed at challenging the outdated status quo in the art world. Through the DEAI (Diversity, Equity, Accessibility, Inclusion) Alliance, she is focused on bringing inclusivity to all aspects of the Guggenheim, from artists to employees.

When James is not working on her duties on the gallery floor, she spends her days reading and researching, often filling up her email inbox. Her style, or rather her self-described "uniform," is a mix of staples in muted tones and laid-back, California-cool silhouettes (James is originally from California). Here, we spoke with James about the intersection of art and fashion, stereotypes in the art world, and her recent purchases of quarantined goods.

Marie Claire: Tell us about your daily attire at the museum.

Ashley James: Before Pandemic, I was more into the uniform style: pants, heeled loafers, button-down, and glasses to the office. I thought I was the kind of person who wouldn't turn on a video during a Zoom call, but I actually still like to get dressed in the morning. I'm usually drawn to muted colors and organic shapes, and I'm a sucker for texture. I've been in New York for a long time, and there's this historical art stereotype of me wearing all black, a totally A-line silhouette, like a severe boot, black-rimmed glasses, and my hair in a super blunt cut or slicked back. But I have a Californian in me who tries not to be too severe.

MC: Do you like the same kind of pale, organic, textured work?

AJ: You may not want to admit it, but I do. That's actually why I came to the Guggenheim. I love conceptual art and I love minimalism. I love conceptual art, and I love minimalism. I think on this level, styles like minimalism also define me.

When I was at MoMa, I was in the drawing and printmaking department. There I also learned that I really like expressive, colorful paintings and that I am open-minded. I think that aspect of myself comes through in my style. Designers I admire are Rachel Comey, The Row, Celine, and Acne Studios. I also love what Aurora James is doing at Brother Velize.

MC: What do you think of the relationship between art and fashion?

AJ: Art is obviously a very fashionable space, and there is a kind of permeability between the two worlds, especially on a social level, that I was able to recognize especially when I attended art openings and other art events before COVID. There is also a more theoretical relationship between the two. Through the artists I have worked with, there have been some interesting connections to fashion. The American I was featured in "Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power" (opens in new tab) (an exhibition that began at the Tate Museum in London and was introduced by James at the Brooklyn Museum in 2018) Jae Jarrell, one of the first American artists and fashion designers to design a wearable mural-like suit heavily influenced by politics. The Brooklyn Museum now owns her Urban Wall Suit (opens in new tab). For some artists, I think these two worlds clearly exist. It made me wonder if I am really interested in the intersection of fashion and art on a historical level.

MC: What was the last fashion item you purchased yourself?

AJ: Right before we closed, I bought several pieces by Eric Mack, an artist I have worked with in the past. He sources materials from various locations around the world and creates wearable pieces based on his painting practice. I purchased two pieces from his limited edition fashion line, a jacket and a button down. I'm still trying to figure out an opportunity to wear something that will help me break out of the light-colored clothes I'm currently wearing. I also bought a pair of cowboy calf print boots. When I bought these, in my mind I was like, yes, I'll wear these at the opening. Of course, that never came to fruition. So I have a lot of stuff in my closet waiting to come out.

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